Q&A with the Winemaker Fabien Castel of Side Street Wine

Meet the Winemaker: An Interview with Fabien Castel winemaker/partner of Side Street Wine

Ojai, California isn’t a place most people associate with vineyards—but Fabien Castel is changing that. After more than two decades working with Adam Tolmach at The Ojai Vineyard, Castel struck out on his own to create Side Street Wine, a project rooted in authenticity, experimentation, and a deep respect for the land.

How did you get into winemaking, and how did Side Street Wine begin?

The idea of winemaking actually came from my wife. We met in South America, and one day she said to me, “You really seem to love wine. Have you ever thought about making it?” I hadn’t—not seriously, at least—but that question stuck with me.

When we moved to California, I started looking for a way in, and that’s when I found Adam Tolmach of The Ojai Vineyard. I ended up spending 22 years there, learning everything about wine—from the vineyard to the cellar. It was an incredible education and a long, rewarding chapter in my life.

After those two decades, I felt it was time to create something of my own—something more personal, where I had full artistic license. That’s how Side Street Wine was born.

How does being based in Ojai shape your approach to wine?

Ojai hasn’t traditionally been known for wine. Adam Tolmach was one of the first to bring winemaking here in the 1980s, but most grapes came from outside the valley.

What shaped my project was realizing that no one was really championing the Ojai Valley or Ventura County as a serious winegrowing region. There are more wineries now, but still very few that truly believe in the potential of growing grapes right here. I saw that as a missing voice. That became my mission: to develop a hyper-local culture of wine—to really give the valley, and the broader county, a distinct and rooted expression in wine.

The climate here is another influence. Ojai isn’t quite coastal and not quite inland. It’s this interesting meeting point of warm days, cool evenings, and unique microclimates. I’m still exploring those and digging into the nooks and crannies of Ventura County to find the best places to grow grapes with character and freshness.

What’s your winemaking philosophy?

My philosophy is rooted in tradition. I learned through very classic techniques, where the goal is minimal intervention—to let the expression of the grape and the place shine through.

But I also want to revisit older, pre-industrial practices—like the traditional field blends you used to see in vineyards across France and Italy. I let flavor and texture guide my technique. That means exploring methods like skin contact on white wines, low or no sulfites, or lower alcohol to create freshness and vibrancy.

I also like to push the boundaries—working with sparkling wines, unconventional blends, and even making vermouths using botanicals. For me, it’s all part of the same idea: exploring the full spectrum, from classic to playful.

What varietals do you work with most?

I work with a wide range of grapes, often sourced from small backyard vineyards planted by non-professionals. I love those constraints—they lead to unexpected discoveries.

I’ve worked with French varietals like Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Grenache, Viognier, and Malbec. I’ve also come to appreciate Italian grapes like Barbera, Sangiovese, and Nebbiolo. For whites, I’ve championed southern varieties like Picpoul, which thrives in our climate.

The diversity is what excites me. A red grape might become a rosé, a sparkling wine, a still red, or even a vermouth. It’s not about loyalty to any single varietal—it’s about what I can do with what’s available.

What current releases are you excited about?

One I’m especially excited for is a Picpoul called Magie Blanche. It’s rich, unctuous, and powerful—not your typical light white.

I’ve also created a non-alcoholic beverage—a botanical extract made from citrus and herbs, blended with non-alcoholic grape juice and served sparkling. It’s perfect for those who don’t drink alcohol.

Another exciting project is a sparkling vermouth spritz, served on tap in the tasting room. It’s playful, refreshing, and a great example of where wine can go beyond tradition. And of course, we just released a Rosé and Sauvignon Blanc, with reds from the 2024 vintage coming soon.

How does sharing a taproom with Ojai Valley Brewery influence the experience?

It’s been fantastic. The brewery created this culture that’s unpretentious, family-friendly, and alive. People bring their kids, their dogs, their own food. It’s relaxed and community-driven.

For wine, it’s been the perfect way to step out of the traditional tasting room mold. We serve wine on tap, and we can even customize drinks on the spot—like mixing our wine-based hard lemonade with beer to make a shandy. Customers get to see that these products aren’t fixed. They’re flexible, responsive, and made for real conversation—not just a transaction.

What kind of experience do you want people to have when they visit?

I want people to feel the craftsmanship. Everything is made right behind the wall where the taps are. They can meet the people who created it and hear the story—where the citrus came from, the botanicals, the grapes, the grain.

It’s about having a real human connection and a deeper connection to nature—whether it’s the natural world around us or something in themselves. With live music and art, the whole place reflects that idea: creativity as a core part of being human.

What’s next for Side Street Wine?

We’re about to begin harvest for the 2025 vintage, and that ever-changing rhythm of nature is what keeps everything new and alive. We’ll keep polishing what we’re doing—new vineyards, new beverages, new vintages.

But it’s also about better sharing what we do—getting people more involved, inviting feedback, maybe even meeting landowners who want to plant grapes. I’d love to explore new fruits, new non-alcoholic beverages. The sky’s the limit. There’s so much more I want to create.